Sometimes it overwhelms me just sitting out there feeling the swells pass under me. Then on a whim, I can feel my wave coming and something takes over me.
In that instant I find myself rocketing into full force action and taking over like the world it’s self is crumbling behind me. I’m blasting down the face of existence surfing down a watery mountain side of ocean.
There is no other feeling on this earth, no drug you can pump in your arm, no woman could blow your mind, nothing… that can bring you even close to that feeling of riding a wave. It’s just different.
Since that day I caught my first wave, my soul became a part of the ocean. Today, there are millions of surfers all around the world on that same vibe, same feeling and letting go to travel, surf and see how the ocean lives in all corners of the earth. The first surfers to date were just a few crazy guys from Hawaii that just went for it! Paddling out on their ten foot or bigger guns of shaped Balsa, no leashes, no teachers, just them and the almighty ocean.
My brain over loads and I get this drive, this confidence, this feeling of complete control.Matthew J Santori
These pioneers are the platform to each and every surfer today. We looked at what they accomplished and it has inspired us to take it even further. Now we have created high-tech, light, polyurethane foam surf boards, covered with fiberglass that allow us to achieve the unimaginable. We can ride faster, cut harder and challenge anything mother nature throws at us. The new boards, killer wet suits we have our dreams in the palm of our hands. We have come so far in our surf technology a surfer can go out in any conditions, whether its freezing snowy winter or warm sunny beach weather.
I personally have surfed New York with five feet of snow on the beach and the snow was so heavy at times I couldn’t see in front of me. However after a nice piss in my snug 3.5 wet suit I was warm and cozy able to surf some incredible winter waves!
The first time for surf, I caught a wave I was about 8 years old at smith point park beach.
I remember having this white, completely foam, 8 inches thick surf monster! The fin was even foam. I was stoked! Even then I felt it, and I always knew I’d surf. It became my full-time life around 18 years old and I have never looked back.
There’s something called flow in life and that is exactly how surfing is.The feeling of dropping in on a perfect wave should be in everybody’s daily diet. It calms your sole, it helps you understand something only you can experience at that very moment.The universe, every grain of your existence mathematically infused in natures perfect flowing formula.
Just sitting out there looking around with dolphins popping up, huge turtles, stingrays all sorts of sea life, its life changing. I surfed amazing waves this one particular morning and two dolphins popped up about 10 feet from me.
One of the dolphins flips upside down and started smacking his tail against the water and then dives into a full flip into the air. I was astonished. To be this close to nature and natures natural mystics is truly what it’s all about. If you get a chance in your life and you’re not all ready surfing, get out there and give it a try, you might find a new found love for it all! Never stop until you reach your goals! One Love.